Parnassos Ski Center: The best skiing near Athens

Yes, you CAN ski in Greece and it’s awesome! Even though Greece is better known as a summer destination it is actually mostly mountainous country and gets a lot of snow during the winter. There are more than 20 ski resorts scattered across the country and literary endless opportunities for those who don’t need lifts and chalets for their winter adventures.

Most of the ski centers can be found in the northern parts of mainland Greece (check out my personal favorite – Vasilitsa) but there are few in central Greece and Peloponnese, too. These are ideal for weekend or even day-long ski trips from Athens.

Both the modern Kalavrita Ski Resort in Achaea and the charming little Mainalo Ski Center in the heart of Arcadia (both Peloponnese) are good choices for short ski holidays from Athens. But the most famous of all is Parnassos Ski Centre with the picturesque Arachova village nearby catering to all its visitors’ needs.

What is it like to ski in Greece

Skiing in Greece is great, that’s for sure. But for me, it’s not because of the stunning mountain scenery, good variety of slopes, charming villages or pleasant weather. It is the general laid back and easy-going atmosphere of the Greek ski centers that make the whole experience so enjoyable for me.

I come from a country where skiing is close to a national sport. Even 5 years old kids are descending the slopes in hair rising speed and professional skiing attire. The adults take skiing very seriously, too, perfecting both their skiing style and equipment every year and spending every second of their ski trip on the slope. Going slow is frown upon and just having a good time is not very high on the list of priorities of an average Czech skier.

But I also come off the rare non-skiing family and learned the sport on my own in my 20ties (and not very well). Therefore, no matter how much I enjoy skiing I always felt a bit like an idiot with my rented skis, poor skiing skills, and the occasional embarrassing fall from the lift.

In Greece, its a completely different story. Even though skiing (and mountains in general) have been gaining popularity lately its still unknown territory for a lot of people. Therefore, there are always enough newbies of all ages trying their first steps (or slides) on the snow, falling down, laughing and helping each other up.

You probably won’t have to worry about being knocked down by some Alberto Tomba wannabe trying to reach the world speed record. And if you feel like a coffee break after just a couple of runs it’s fine, too. We are not here to train for the Olympics, right? Don’t get me wrong, there is a lot of great skiers in Greece, too. It’s just the serious and judgemental atmosphere that’s missing.

Parnassos Ski Centre

For a short trip from Athens, the Parnassos Ski Centre is the best choice. Lying only about 2 and a half hours drive from Athens (180 km) it is easy to reach and has everything you would expect from a modern ski resort.

It is actually the largest of the Greek ski resorts, with plenty of lifts and slopes of all difficulty levels. The lifts vary from gondola and chairlifts to all kinds of surface lifts so even if you are just starting out you will find a comfortable way to the top.

The majority of the runs range from easy to medium difficulty with few free ride options for the adrenaline lovers. I found most of the runs wide and open without any unexpected obstructions making it the perfect place for beginner skiers.

In general, Parnassos is a good place to start your skiing or snowboarding journey. There are always plenty of beginners trying their first steps (or slides) on the snow under the watch full eye of a ski instructor so you’ll not feel alone.

The center of Parnassos Ski Resort lies in Kellaria about 30 minutes drive from Arachova. It has two parts connected by a gondola lift. The bottom station at Kellaria 1750 is the place to park your car and buy a ski pass.

There is a shop with ski equipment and ski rental as well but I prefer to get my skis later at Kellaria 1950. This way I can enjoy the scenic gondola ride in all comfort and don’t have to suffer through the final descent to Kellaria 1750 on skis. This last section is just too narrow for my taste and in dire need of some kind protective fencing in its most exposed parts.

Kellaria 1950 is the heart of Parnassos Ski Center. It has all the amenities you’ll need including ski rentals and shops, a school and a large modern cafeteria. Most importantly, it is the starting point for the main lifts and ski runs of the ski center.

My personal favorite is the Ηρακλής (yes, of course, they are named after the ancient Greek gods and heroes), with more than 1 km long chairlift reaching the altitude of 2250 meters and variety of blue and red runs descending down to Kellaria. Even non-skiers can embark on a gondola ride to the top with a stopover in Kelaria 1950 to enjoy the beautiful views and fresh mountain air.

How to get to Mount Parnassos from Athens

Thanks to the popularity of Arachova and Delfi, roads in the area are comfortable and well maintained (not a matter of course in the mountainous regions of Greece). The shortest way is to take the Lamia highway from Athens to Kastro and from here just follow the signs for Arachova and Delphi. From Arachova it is another 25 km drive to reach the bottom station of the gondola at Kelaria.

Arachova is easily accessible by bus, too. There are regular KTEL buses connecting the mountain village with Athens, the ride taking around 3hours. Or, if you are an early bird you can take a designated Ski Bus from Athens for a day trip to Parnassos (for more info check out THIS and THIS site).

Where to stay during your ski trip to Mount Parnassos

Arachova

Arachova is definitely the most popular accommodation choice in the area. This originally traditional mountain village is bursting with life and offers all kinds of entertainment, refreshment, and shopping to its visitors. It’s popular among the Greeks all year round and satisfies both the mountain enthusiasts and those who want to be seen in one of the poshest Greek destinations. It is beautiful, too, with its traditional architecture and stunning mountain views and worth a visit on its own.

Kalivia | Livadia

This originally grazing land has become kind of a satellite of Arachova in the recent years filling with new-build chalet-style rentals. As much as I love the location on a grassy plain surrounded by forested hills halfway between Arachova and Kelaria I found this place slightly depressive and lacking character. However, it offers comfortable accommodation in close proximity of the ski center making it a popular choice. Don’t forget to visit the impressive Corycian Cave (Korykion Antron) nearby if you have an hour or two to spare.

Delphi

Delphi is a slightly unorthodox accommodation choice but not a bad one. This small town, famous for its oracle and a large archaeological site, offers all kinds of accommodation, usually more budget-friendly than the nearby Arachova. It has a lot of cafés and taverns but doesn’t expect any ski-related shops or rentals. Also, you’ll need a car to get to the ski center from Delphi.

If you are not much of a skier and don’t want to spend all weekend cruising the slopes of Mount Parnassos by staying in Delphi you can make this part a cultural visit as well. Plan it around the first Sunday of a month (winter only) and you will get free entrance to the archaeological site, too. But we are getting a bit off-topic here…

How much is it gonna cost?

I’m not gonna lie, a day skiing trip from Athens to Parnassos is not cheap, especially if renting the equipment. To save some money, come during the weekdays if possible for a cheaper ski pass and in case of the ski bus from Athens ask if they offer a discount for ski rental. Our budget during a one-day skiing trip from Athens on Sunday looked something like this:

• Petrol 50 euros + 20 euros for tolls. You can bypass few tolls by leaving the highway at Thiva if you don’t mind a bit longer drive. As an alternative, the ski bus only costs 15 euros per person.

• Ski pass 30 euro per day + 5 euro deposit for the plastic card. Don’t forget to return the card back to the cashier at the end of the day to get your money back. Weekdays are cheaper at 20 euros per day.

• Ski set 15 euro and snowboard set 20 euros. For an additional 7 euros, you can rent a helmet, too.

• 3 euros for a sunbed at the chalet at Kellaria

• 15 euros for two very plain sandwiches, two small bottles of water and a takeaway coffee at Kellaria 1950. In general, the refreshment options at the slopes are not great and except for maybe a coffee I will avoid them altogether next time. Bring a sandwich from home and splurge on a proper meal later in Arachova.

• 46 euros for dinner for two (very hungry skiers) in Arachova. Obviously, this one is not mandatory. But its becoming kind of a tradition of ours to eat in Παναγιώτα on the rare occasion we visit Arachova. This small cozy tavern is not cheap but the food is great, the staff friendly and their pork ribs to die for. To find the tavern climb an extremely long staircase from the main street of Arachova leading to the Agios Georgios church. The tavern is hidden right behind.

• 50 euros for ski pants. Ok, I think only my boyfriend can go skiing this unprepared. But I included it anyway because just to show that if you do forget some random stuff at home you can always get it in Arachova.

When is the best time to go

The skiing season in Central Greece usually starts around Christmas and holds until March. Towards the end of the season, the weather can get pretty warm and sunny on some days. As pleasant as it is to ski in fleece only, the quality of snow isn’t great and the risk of sunburn really high.

Weekends and public holidays are getting increasingly busy lately causing issues on the roads and long queues at the lifts and equipment rentals. If you want to avoid the crowds and ski all day without interruptions choose a weekday instead.

Fun things to do apres-ski

For apres-ski in the traditional sense head to Arachova. Its picturesque streets are filled with taverns, trendy cafes, bars, and boutiques and a lot of the hotels offer a swimming pool or spa. It is the liveliest spot in this neck of the woods with busy nightlife but the prices reflect the town’s trendy status.

For a completely different experience drive down to the coast and enjoy an evening stroll and dinner by the sea. The coastal towns of Itea and Kirra lie some 30 km away from Arachova but it is kind of cool and unusual to enjoy the ocean breeze after a full day on the mountain.

As mentioned before, the famous archaeological site at Delphi is just a stone’s throw away from Arachova. So if you are short on time or not that much into skiing fitting both Delphi and Parnassos visit into one trip could make for a pretty great weekend.

Final tip: Wear sunscreen! A lot of it. The Greek sun at 2000 meters altitude is strong and you don’t want to end up burned like a tomato as I did.

More from Greece in winter:

• 20 SNOWY PHOTOS THAT WILL INSPIRE YOU TO VISIT GREECE IN WINTER
• SKIING IN GREECE: VASILITSA SKI RESORT
• WINTER HIKING AT MOUNT PARNITHA IN PICTURES
• HOW TO SPEND AN AWESOME WEEKEND IN SANTORINI IN WINTER