Mount Parnitha has been our source of convenient nature escapes for many years thanks to its proximity to Athens, and many times I thought this humble mountain couldn’t surprise us anymore.
But then I came across a new trail leading us to yet another undiscovered corner of this beautiful mountain, and I realize there is still so much left to explore. This excursion to the northeast part of Mount Parnitha near Sfendali was exactly that.
It took us to a much quieter section of the mountain, very different from the busy Tatoi estate or the refuges of Bafi and Flambouri, but equally charming.
How to get there
The 35‑kilometre drive from the centre of Athens to the trailhead at Agios Merkourios took us about 45 minutes.
We followed the Lamia highway until the exit for Thrakomakedones and the Olympic Village. After about 1 km, we turned right onto the Tatoi road.
We drove along the Tatoi premises, which were burnt during the wildfires of August 2021 but are now slowly coming back to life.
We passed a small but beautiful section of oak forest, and soon after we reached the little chapel of Agios Merkourios. We parked next to the church and continued on foot. You can find driving directions on Google Maps HERE.
A variation of the hike can be done even without a car, since the train station in Sfendali is only about 2 km away (route reference on Wikiloc HERE).
If you decide to go by train, check the TrainOSE website for timetables and other details — and let me know in the comments how it went.
Maps, signposting & difficulty
The trail was around 11 kilometres long with about 500 metres of elevation gain, and overall it was only moderately difficult.
Finding the path didn’t pose any challenges, but the trail was rocky, muddy, and slippery on a wet winter day.
Except for a small section at the beginning, the trail was marked with a combination of yellow, purple, blue, and red markings. For most of the hike, we followed the yellow signs.
The area is covered by the Anavasi map of Mount Parnitha, but we mostly relied on Wikiloc for navigation (you can find our Wikiloc recording HERE).
I’m sure the hike would be enjoyable all year round thanks to the lush green forests and the peaceful feel of the area.
But in winter or early spring, when the streams fill with clear, bubbling water and the forest is moist and fresh, this place is especially magical.
Agios Merkourios – Paliomilesi – Xouliza
We started our hike at the small church of Agios Merkourios, a run-down spot with few abandoned buildings and no signs or information tables indicating the trailhead.
However, after a quick look around, we spotted a narrow trail on the opposite side of the road descending down to the valley.
We followed the steep, muddy trail, and after about 500 metres, we reached a dirt road and the second Agios Merkourios church.
This one was much prettier, sitting at the bottom of a wooded valley with a small stream bubbling nearby. After exploring the church, we crossed the stream and continued uphill on the other side of the valley.
The next part was slightly confusing since we hadn’t seen any markings yet at this point. After about 150 metres we come across another dirt road running horizontally across the slopes.
We turned left here and continued along the road for another 100 metres until we spotted a trail climbing up to the right. It took us to another forest road where we took a right.
After another 250 metres we encounter another trail branching off to the right from a sharp left turn of the road. We followed this trail uphill until we arrived at another road.
From here, things become much clearer and the trail better marked. We turned right on the road, but a few metres later we joined another trail branching off to the left.
For the next approximately one and a half kilometres we followed the trail through thick vegetation, dewy and fresh after the recent rains.
When we came to yet another forest road, we turned left and continued along the side of small ravines. We could hear water rushing through its bottom and got excited when we saw the road descending towards it.
We followed the road for about 700 metres until we arrived at a trail branching off to the left. We joined the trail and embarked on the most scenic part of this hike.
From here to Paliomilesi, the trail followed the ravine floor beside the stream, winding between moss‑covered plane trees and other woodland growth.
The bubbling stream kept us company; we paused for many photos here and enjoyed the occasional river crossing as a fun highlight along the way.
At Paliomilesi we come to a crossroads of multiple paths. We followed the sign for Xouliza, keeping to the right side of the stream.
Soon after the crossroad, the path turned uphill, and we started the most tiring section of the hike. For the next 2 kilometres we climbed uphill through the forest, gaining about 250 metres of elevation.
Towards the end of the climb, the terrain flattened, and we came across a series of small grassy meadows dotted with colourful winter wildflowers.
Xouliza – Vrokoli – Lakka Milias
At Xouliza, a long, narrow meadow and our turning point, we encountered the trail from Saloniki to Mola that we remembered from our previous hikes.
Turning left here in the direction of Mola, we walked only about 10 or 20 metres before spotting another path branching off to the left, coming from the same direction we had just walked.
From here we joined the trail and began our return toward Agios Merkourios. At first, the path ran almost horizontally along the top of the hill, winding through bushes and strawberry trees and offering glimpses of the sea and Mount Dirfi in the distance.
After about half a kilometre, it turned downhill and descended quite steeply through the wooded slopes.
Once the terrain flattened a bit, the trail turned into a dirt road, and the surrounding forest gave way to pastures and majestic plane trees.
A narrow trail soon appeared on the right, diving back into the forest after about 500 metres on the dirt road. This crossroads of paths, called Vrokoli, was a bit confusing, so pay attention here.
Joining this trail, we continued for another 2 kilometres until we reached the dirt road where we had started this circular part of our hike. We followed the dirt road all the way back up to Agios Merkourios and our car without any complications.
