The mountainous Epirus is one of my favorite parts of Greece! Alas, due to its distance from Athens, I don’t get to visit it as often as I’d like.
However, whenever we do manage to plan a trip to this remote part of Greece, I’m always left in awe of its dramatic mountainous landscapes, pristine nature, and charming stone-built settlements and bridges. This trip was no exception!
Getting to Smolikas & Zagorochoria from Athens
The 500-kilometer drive from Athens to Pades, located at the foot of Mount Smolikas, took us approximately seven hours, including a few rest breaks along the way.
We followed the highway through Corinth, Patras, and Arta until Ioannina. From Ioannina, we joined the regional Kozani-Ioannina road and continued until Konitsa.
In Konitsa, we finally turned toward the mountains, following the road to Distrato. The last 30 kilometers to Pades were the most challenging, with sharp turns and significant elevation gain.
However, this stretch of the route was also the most beautiful, offering stunning views of the characteristic ridgeline of Mount Tymfi.
On our way back, we left the Konitsa-Distrato road at Paleoseli and followed signs for Vrisochori, crossing the valley of the Aoos River.
From there, we drove through the villages of Iliochori and Tsepelovo, made a small detour to Vradeto to admire the stunning Vikos Gorge, passed some of Zagori’s most famous stone bridges, and joined the road to Ioannina in a village called Metamorfosi.
It began as a paved path at the Klidonia Bridge but later transitioned into a muddy trail. Aside from one rocky section right before the monastery, it was comfortable and easy to follow.
This route was slightly slower but allowed us to visit some of Zagori’s most impressive sights on our way back to Athens. You can find the directions on Google Maps HERE.
Where to stay & eat
During our trip to Smolikas and Zagorochoria, we spent three nights at the Xenonas Munti Smolikas in the center of Pades.
This cozy guesthouse is conveniently located at the starting point of multiple trails to Mount Smolikas and the valley of the Aoos River.
It offers simple yet warm and comfortable accommodation at a reasonable price, tasty meals and a welcoming atmosphere in its common area.
We stayed in an eight-person room with bunk beds and a private bathroom (a hot shower after our hikes felt like such a luxury!) and paid €18 per person per night.
The meals were a pleasant surprise for me, too! As a vegetarian, I typically expect to live on French fries and tzatziki when visiting the Greek mountains, since vegetarian options are usually scarce. However, at Munti Smolikas, there was a different vegetarian dish available every day!
Maps & Signposting
Two Anavasi maps cover the area we visited: the map of Smolikas & Grammos and the map of Zagori. Both were very useful for planning our trip, but on the trails, we primarily relied on Wikiloc for navigation.
All the trails we followed were generally very well marked and easy to navigate. Even during our winter ascent to the Drakolimni of Smolikas, when the path was covered in snow, we could still follow the signs for the most part.
The guys at the Munti Smolikas guesthouse were also happy to share information about the trails and snow conditions in the mountains.
That being said, Smolikas and the neighboring Tymfi are serious mountains and require proper equipment and skills, especially during the winter.
Day 1: Klidonia Bridge to the Monastery of Agioi Anargyroi Hike
To break up the long drive from Athens to Pades, we stopped in Kleidonia for a short hike along the Voidomatis River to the Monastery of Agioi Anargyroi.
At just 6 kilometers in length and 170 meters of elevation gain, this was an easy hike. That didn’t make it any less enjoyable.
The trail ran through the bottom of an impressive canyon, winding among old, moss-covered trees, with the turquoise waters of the Voidomatis River in clear view the entire time.
It started as a paved path at the bridge of Klidonia, but later turned into a muddy trail. Except for one rocky section right before the monastery, it was comfortable and easy to follow.
There is an information table at the beginning of the path with details about the trail and the natural and geological features of the area. We saw a couple of maps there as well.
We ended our hike at the charming Agioi Anargyroi Monastery, hidden deep within the canyon, before retracing our steps back to the car. If you have more time, though, you can continue to the Aristi-Papingo Bridge.
Check out our Wikiloc recording HERE.
Day 2: Hiking from Pades to the Dragon Lake of Smolikas
The hike from Pades to the Drakolimni of Smolikas had been on my wishlist for a long time and was one of the main motivations for this trip. However, things didn’t go entirely according to plan.
The trail to the lake starts right at the xenonas in Pades and is marked by red signs. With around 1,000 meters of elevation gain, we knew it would be challenging.
The staff at the xenonas also warned us about a significant amount of snow covering the upper parts of the trail. We were optimistic, though, especially since there was no snow near Pades and the initial uphill trail was quite easy.
We set off early in the morning to ensure we could complete the 15-kilometer hike before nightfall.
At the beginning, we climbed through the sleepy village and past the climbing crag of Pades before entering the forest. For the first kilometer or so, we followed a mix of wide, comfortable trails and forest roads, gaining elevation quickly.
After about 1.5 kilometers, we reached a fork in the trail—both paths led to Drakolimni, one passing through ‘Pantelexarchou’ and the other via ‘sara’ (a scree field). We opted for the latter and soon arrived at the scree field.
At first, the trail, partially covered with snow, traversed the scree horizontally and wasn’t particularly difficult. However, toward the end, it turned uphill and became quite steep.
Under normal conditions, this wouldn’t cause us any trouble. But on an early winter morning, the slope was completely frozen and very slippery.
However, slowly and with great caution, we managed to climb to the top in the end and continued our ascent on a more comfortable trail.
At around 1,800 meters, we left the forest road behind and entered a sparse forest. Here, the snow became much deeper, and the snowshoe tracks we had been following until now disappeared altogether.
For the next two kilometers, we struggled through waist-deep snow, sinking and stumbling with every step, growing more and more tired as we progressed.
At one point, the skies cleared briefly, offering us a glimpse of the surrounding mountains. However, the weather quickly worsened again—the wind picked up, and snow began to fall.
Just one kilometer from the lake, we decided to turn back due to low visibility, slow progress, and the daunting prospect of an equally exhausting return hike.
Although it was disappointing not to reach the Drakolimni, we still enjoyed this beautiful hike through the snowy landscape and the challenge the mountain prepared for us this time.
Check out our Wikiloc recording HERE.
Day 3: Milopotamos Waterfall & Aoos River Hike from Pades
On the third day of our stay in Pades, the weather worsened, and the mountaintops were shrouded in dark, heavy clouds. Therefore, we decided to head down to the valley of the Aoos River in search of a recently discovered waterfall.
The circular trail we followed had about 7.5 kilometers in length and 500 meters of elevation gain and seemed quite easy. In reality, it had its (fun) challenges.
We started our hike right above the xenonas in Pades, following a sign pointing towards the church of Agioi Apostoloi.
I didn’t expect much from the first section of the hike—we chose this path mainly to avoid the kilometer-and-a-half stretch of an asphalt road between the village and the church. However, it turned out to be just as picturesque as the rest of the trail.
The path passed by the last houses of Pades before entering the forest, continuing under the canopy of moss-covered, gnarly old trees. In the light rain, the entire area was lush, moist and fragrant and we soon felt like Frodo making his way through the Old Forest.
After about 500 meters, we emerged onto the asphalt road at the Agioi Apostoloi church. We crossed the road and continued along the church’s wall, following a sign pointing towards Aoos.
The trail quickly became steep and slippery, but the views of the Aoos Valley and the peaks of Mount Tymfi peeking through the clouds were incredible, and we made countless photo stops along the way.
About halfway down to the valley, we came across a few unusually shaped scree fields that required a lot of caution. Later, we encountered a creek crossing and a steep, muddy section of the path secured by a rope.
But these obstacles didn’t cause us too much trouble, and soon we stood at the bottom of the valley, next to the fast-flowing Aoos River. We took a short break here, taking in the wild, beautiful scenery before continuing upstream along the riverbank.
The next section of the trail, marked by blue paint, was trickier than expected. At one point, the valley narrowed, and our trail disappeared. From that point on, we were forced to climb over boulders of varying shapes and sizes scattered along the riverbank.
Once we reached the confluence with the Milopotamos stream, our trail turned upwards towards Pades. The trail became much clearer, albeit steep, allowing us to make quicker progress.
About 300 meters later, we reached a sign pointing to the right towards the waterfall (kataraktis). We followed the trail through the forest and down a steep, muddy slope secured by a rope, eventually reaching the bottom of a deep ravine.
Turning left here, we soon arrived at the waterfall. It was an impressive sight and well worth the short detour from the main trail.
Once we enjoyed the beautiful scenery, we returned to the trail, turned right and continued our ascent. After another 1.5 kilometers, we reached an asphalt road on the edge of the village, turned left here and continued along the road until the xenonas.
I didn’t expect much from this hike—it was planned as a bad-weather alternative to more challenging ascents to Mount Smolikas.
But in the end, it turned out to be my favorite part of our trip, thanks to the breathtaking scenery and diverse terrain along the way. I highly recommend it!
Check out our Wikiloc recording HERE.
Day 4: Zagorochoria Road Trip: Balta Di Stringa Waterfall, Sarakatsaniki Stani, Tsepelovo, Beloi Viewpoint (Vikos Gorge)
Before returning to Athens on the final day of our trip, we decided to embark on a road trip through the Zagorochoria to visit some of the area’s most famous sights.
From Pades, we drove towards Konitsa but left the main road at a small village called Paleoseli, following signs for Vrisochori. We crossed the Aoos River Valley and, after about 10 kilometers, reached our first destination: Iliochori.
Balta Di Stringa Waterfall in Iliochori
We parked our car in the center of the village and began our first hike of the day to the Balta Di Stringa waterfall.
At just 2.5 kilometers in length with 150 meters of elevation gain, it seemed like a leisurely walk. However, the reality was quite different.
The trail descending to the waterfall was muddy and very slippery, and the wooden bridges along the way were in dire need of maintenance.
Despite these challenges, the picturesque waterfall with its lush, green surroundings was well worth the effort.
Check out our Wikiloc recording HERE.
Sarakatsaniki Stani in Gyftokampos
After leaving Iliochori, we continued driving south to the Sarakatsaniki Stani, located right beside the road, some 7 kilometers from Iliochori.
The Sarakatsaniki Stani is an open-air museum and cultural site dedicated to the Sarakatsani, a traditionally nomadic Greek ethnic group renowned for their pastoral lifestyle.
The site replicates a traditional Sarakatsani settlement (stani), featuring wooden huts, sheepfolds, and communal areas that reflect their historical way of life.
It was an interesting place to visit, though I wish there had been more informational displays to learn about the Sarakatsani people and their mountain life.
Tsepelovo Village
Our next stop was Tsepelovo, about 15 kilometers away. Tsepelovo is one of the larger and busier villages in Zagorochoria, but it doesn’t take away from its charm.
We enjoyed strolling through its cobbled lanes, admiring the stone-built houses and the obligatory shopping for local products.
There are many taverns, coffee shops and accommodation options available as well in Tsepelovo making it a great base for explorations of this part of Zagorochoria and the Vikos Aoos National Park.
Beloi Viewpoint
Leaving Tsepelovo, we drove towards Kapesovo until we spotted a road branching off to the right towards Vradeto. We turned here, and for the next 9 kilometers, we climbed uphill through a series of turns with beautiful views opening up all around us.
Upon reaching Vradeto, we drove through the village and parked at the end of the asphalt road. From there, we embarked on our final hike of the day to the Beloi Viewpoint overlooking the spectacular Vikos Gorge.
For the first 700 meters, we followed a wide, unsurfaced road until we reached an information table marking the beginning of a nature walk to the viewpoint.
The trail is equipped with wooden displays providing insights into the local flora and geological features. It’s only about 1.5 kilometers long and quite easy.
For the most part, we walked through a relatively flat landscape scattered by trees, boulders anda few grazing horses, with nothing suggesting the dramatic scenery ahead.
It was only towards the end of our walk that we arrived at a cluster of unusual rock formations and followed a cobblestone path descending among them. After about 100 meters of slipping on the frozen rocks, we arrived at a small balcony overlooking the gorge.
The views from this little terrace perched high above the Vikos Gorge are breathtaking, not only due to the sheer size of the canyon but also thanks to the impressive rock towers lining the steep walls.
Part of the Vikos-Aoos National Park, Vikos Gorge is one of the world’s deepest gorges (relative to its width), with limestone cliffs soaring nearly 1,000 meters high and the Voidomatis River flowing through its base.
The gorge is home to diverse wildlife and a variety of unique plant species, highlighting its ecological importance.
I could have sat at the Beloi viewpoint for hours enjoying the stunning views, but after a while,e the cold mountain air blowing from the canyon and the long drive to Athens still ahead of us forced us to retreat.
We returned to our car the same way and, with heavy hearts, set off on the journey home.
Check out our Wikiloc recording HERE.
