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With the temperatures in Athens rising to unbearable heights all of July we decided to seek relief in the stunning mountains of Epirus, Tzoumerka, and Peristeri.
I’ve had the privilege to visit Tzoumerka before on multiple occasions, be it a thrilling hiking adventure on Strogoula and Skala Stamati, canyoning near Sirrako, or an unforgettable road trip through the mountainous northern Greece, and I loved every moment of it.
This time, we choose to take a closer look at the villages Theodoriana and Chaliki and their beautiful surroundings full of rugged mountain tops, deep unspoiled forests, rushing rivers, and waterfalls.
And even though our adventure didn’t always go according to the plan we had an amazing time exploring this wild and remote corner of Greece.
Driving to Theodoriana from Athens
The 400 kilometers drive from Athens to Theodoriana took us around 5 hours and cost us approximately 70 euros each way (20 euros tolls + 50 euros petrol). We followed the highway until Trikala where we turned inland towards the mountains.
Another option is to leave the highway near a village called Kedros and head towards Karditsa. This way is slightly slower but more beautiful as it passes closer to the mountains.
Either way, you’ll enter the mountains at Pyli, an inconspicuous village lying at the mouth of an impressive canyon separating the Itamos and Koziakas mountains. The Portaikos River runs through the bottom of the gorge and there is an imposing stone bridge about 1 kilometer into the canyon worth a stop.
Once we entered the mountains at Pyli, the once comfortable road became narrower and steeper, full of turns, tunnels, broken asphalt, and falling rocks. But even though we completed this part of the drive at night we managed to reach Theodoriana without any issues.
We spent our first night in the mountains camping at the Stavros Refuge above Theodoriana. To get there, we drove through the village and continued uphill in the direction of Athamanio.
After about 7 kilometers we left the asphalt road and turned right towards the refuge. The last approximately 300 meters were unsurfaced but nothing our tiny Fiat couldn’t handle. You can check out the driving directions on Google Maps HERE.
Where to stay
The accommodation options between Theodoriana and Chaliki are limited so we decided to camp outside during our trip.
At Theodoriana, we stayed near the Stavros Refuge, a small mountain hut built in an amazing location high on the slopes of the mountains.
It offers accommodation, food, and drinks and according to the owner, it is open year-round. (However, check with them beforehand to make sure).
I loved everything about our stay at the refuge, from the welcoming owners, stunning views, and lovely breakfast to the calming ringing of the bells from the nearby sheep farm through the night.
In Chaliki, we spent one night camping at the church called Profitis Ilias about 1 km before the village, and another night at the pastures about 1.5 km outside Chaliki on the way to Verliga.
We were warned about bears recently spotted in the area which made our night quite restless despite the tiredness. But in the end, we didn’t have any issues, the only animal visitors passing through our campsite were a herd of very curious cows.
few practical tips
- Google Maps were sometimes quite unreliable when driving through the mountainous Tzoumerka and often led us to horrible broken dirt roads when there was a much better option. Asking for directions whenever you can is a good idea as well as using a printed map and common sense.
- There was no cell reception in and around Chaliki but free Wi-Fi at the village square.
- All the local people we met in Tzoumerka were very friendly, helpful, accommodating, and really, really chatty! They loved sharing their knowledge of the mountains while also being curious about us.
- While the wild mountains of Tzoumerka are home to a population of bears and wolves our scariest animal encounters were with shepherd dogs protecting the many sheep herds grazing the mountain slopes. However, even though the huge dogs running toward us and barking frantically looked terrifying I don’t think they were too dangerous. I’m no expert on shepherd dogs by any means but from our experience as long as we didn’t approach the herd any closer they left us alone. Be cautious though and keep your distance.
- The mountain roads in Tzoumerka were damaged by recent floods in many places, leading to broken asphalt, holes, fallen bridges, and patches of poorly fixed unsurfaced roads. With a bit of caution, it didn’t cause us much trouble in dry summer weather with low water levels. However, they may become much more difficult when the rainy season comes.
- Talking about the pitfalls of the roads, another obstacle we encountered quite often was the abundance of cows! And while sheep herds were usually accompanied by a shepherd and a couple of dogs the cows of Tzoumerka seemed to roam freely without any obvious human presence. They didn’t bother us at all but also didn’t show any intention to move when they saw us coming so be prepared to adapt to them.
- Last but not least, water was abundant everywhere! Even during the heat wave in the middle of the hot Greek summer with temperatures in Athens rising to a staggering 40 degrees, the mountains of Tzoumerka were full of crystal clear and refreshingly cool water. We were never too far from a spring where we could fill our water bottle or a bubbling creek with small pools (or vathres in Greek) inviting for a swim.
Day 1: Theodoriana (Stavros Refuge and the Souda Waterfalls) + River trekking at the Steno Athamanias
The first stop on our trip to Tzoumerka was the Souda waterfalls just outside of Theodoriana. After we enjoyed a tasty breakfast at the Stavros Refuge we drove back to Theodoriana and continued through the village following the signs for Souda waterfalls.
Souda Waterfall
We parked our car at the end of the asphalt road near an information table marking the beginning of the path to Souda. From here, we followed a comfortable trail running through the forest, accompanied by a charming little creek. It was only about 1 kilometer long and very easy.
The Souda waterfalls were the main reasons why I wanted to visit Theodoriana and they did not disappoint. Even though the water level was low in the middle of summer it was still an impressive sight to see the water rushing through the twin waterfalls and down the 25-meter-tall rock face.
We were warned by the locals that the temperature of the water in the waterfall remains at 4 degrees even in the summer but on a hot day, the cool spray from the falls was a welcomed refreshment.
On our way from Souda Waterfalls back to Theodoriana, we stopped for a coffee and a cake at a coffee shop called Panorama sitting in a beautiful location high above the village. Its large, grassy terrace overlooks the surrounding mountains and offers truly magnificent views.
Theodoriana to Athamania
After leaving Theodoriana, we drove to a village called Athamania to visit the striking canyon of the Moutsaritiko River called Steno Athamanias. To get to Athamania, we returned to the unfinished dam at Mesachora where we turned north towards a village called Armatoliko. Here, the asphalt road turned into a dirt road and an unexpected adventure began.
For the next 10 kilometers or so we followed an unsurfaced road passing through the forested slopes high above the Acheloos River. While beautiful, this valley was deserted and wild and it was a bit scary to think what would happen if we got stuck here or lost.
Google Maps didn’t help either when they tried to send us down a broken road near a settlement called Again Trianda. Fortunately, after consulting our Anavasi Map of South Pindos, we chose the correct way and safely returned to the asphalt road near a village called Paleochori.
There is an alternative road from Theodoriana to Athamania via Elati and Pertouli which would be a much more comfortable choice but it is also 80 kilometers longer. Either way, it is a good idea to ask the locals about the present conditions of the road you are planning to take.
Steno Athamanias
Once in Athamania and after filling our water bottles at the square we drove through the village and followed a dirt road for about 1.5 kilometers until we reached a ford across the river. We parked our car here and continued on foot.
We crossed the river and followed the dirt road for another 400 meters until it started turning inland (to the left). At this point, we descended to the riverbed and continued upstream.
There was no clear path to follow so we just skipped from boulder to boulder and at some point entered the stream. The trail was marked by small cairns but they weren’t really necessary or helpful as it would be quite hard to get lost in the river bed.
The trail along the Moutsaritiko River had about 4 km each way. It was quite easy all the way up to the narrowest part of the canyon and we enjoyed wading through the water while admiring the lush green surroundings, unusual rock formations, and charming waterfalls.
However, when we reached the narrowest part of the gorge towards the end of the hike, the water became deep and freezing cold and the way was blocked by a small waterfall.
At this point, we decided to call it a day as we were alone and unsure if it would be safe for us to continue. However, if you do, there is another waterfall waiting for you at the end of the canyon as a reward for your efforts.
You can find the recording of our hike on Wikiloc HERE. Make sure to wear proper shoes for this hike, my trail runners worked quite well on the slippery rocks in the stream but my friend’s Teva sandals not so much.
After returning to our car we drove to Chaliki some 30 kilometers to the north to get ready for our hike to Verliga the next day. Before reaching our campsite for the night we stopped for dinner in a mezedopolio called La Verliga in Chaliki. The owner was very welcoming and happy to provide any information about the hike to Verliga and the life in the mountains in general.
Day 2: Hiking from Chaliki to Verliga at Mount Lakmos
Hiking to the meanders of Verliga at Mount Lakmos and staying overnight has been a dream of mine for many years. During this trip, it only partially came true. We planned to camp at Verliga overnight and to return to Chaliki the next day but the mountain gods weren’t on our side this time. But more about that later.
The trail to Verliga from Chaliki is marked by red paint and there is a sign pointing towards Verliga right before the center of the village. We didn’t start our hike in Chaliki and instead drove in the direction of Verliga for about 1.5 kilometers following a series of broken dirt roads until we found a good camping spot near a stream.
We parked our car here and continued on foot the next day. If it wasn’t for our search for a place to camp I would prefer to start the hike from Chaliki as the road was quite bad and the surrounding nature already very beautiful.
We started our hike early in the morning to avoid the worst heat and packed all our equipment and food for an overnight stay. We crossed a grassy pasture and near a spot called Elatakia, we made a short detour to the stream to fill our water bottle.
From here, we followed the trail uphill through the forest, wading through waist-high ferns. We crossed a forest road multiple times until we decided to omit the shortcuts through the forest altogether and continue along the road to make our ascent with heavy backpacks easier.
After another kilometer or so we reached the tree line. At this point, we encountered a small stream running from the right side of the road with a faint trail parallel to it. Coincidently, we also met an elderly farmer here who advised us to follow the trail to avoid a couple of shepherd dogs higher up on the road.
The next kilometer of climbing through the grassy slopes along an almost non-existent path was hard and soon we realized that leaving the main path didn’t make our ascent any easier. But after a while, we reached our original trail and much flatter terrain near a charming stone-built shepherd’s hut.
And even though the famous meanders of Verliga were supposed to be the main star of this hike (and they were stunning!) this view of the barren mountains towering above the tiny shepherd’s hut with a herd of sheep grazing nearby was probably my favorite part of this hike.
From here the trail led us to another section of dirt road crossing the treeless mountainside. The heat and sunshine were hardly bearable at this point and we prayed for some clouds.
After another kilometer or so we left the road again and followed the trail uphill through an increasingly rockier terrain. The landscape became more rugged with every step we took and finally, we were treated to a few white fluffy clouds and some well-needed shade.
The rest of the ascent through the dramatic landscape of rugged peaks and grassy slopes was pure joy and soon we found ourselves standing at the ridge above the plateau of Verliga. We made a short detour to the Karvelou spring at the southern end of the plateau before descending to the stream.
We pitched our tent in one of the river bends excited that we could finally rest. We spent some time enjoying the stunning scenery all around without realizing how much the skies darkened in the meantime. Then the first lighting struck and we saw the other groups of hikers already camping at Verliga frantically packing their tents.
At first, we thought the storm would pass quickly and we waited a few minutes trying to understand the movement of the clouds. But once we heard the thunder rumble at the mountain tops all around the panic set in, we quickly packed our things and began our hasty retreat.
For the next approximately 2 hours the thunder raged above us amplified by the echo of the mountains as we quickly descended to Chaliki. This time we followed the trail through the forest to make our descent as fast as possible and it was one of the prettiest parts of the hike!
To increase our disappointment, as soon as we arrived back to our car the skies cleared and an amazing evening light flooded the landscape. But I guess that’s the way it goes in the mountains sometimes.
To end the day on a positive note and to wash away some of the fatigue from our hike we went for a swim at one of the lovely pools near the village and enjoyed a tasty meal in the tavern called Kapraria at the main square of Chaliki (with surprising amount of vegetarian options!). You can check out the Wikiloc recording from our ascent to Verliga HERE.
Day 3: A road trip through the Athamania Ori
With our visit to Verliga cut short by the thunderstorm, we had a whole day left before returning to Athens in the evening. So we decided to take a leisurely road trip through the mountains in the direction of Pyli stopping at any interesting place we may find along the way.
After we explored the lovely wooded surroundings of the Profits Ilias Church where we spent the night we drove back to Chaliki to recharge and refill our water bottles.
On the way, we stopped at an amazing viewpoint right before the village overlooking the stone-built Agios Georgios Church, the Acheloos River, and the surrounding mountains. There is a spring here too making it the perfect place to rest for a bit.
Monastery Panagia Galaktotrofoussa and the stone-built Michou bridge
The next stop on our drive through the mountains was the Monastery Panagia Galaktotrofoussa and the stone-built Michou bridge about 5 kilometers south of Chaliki. To get there, leave the main road following the sign for Kalarrites, cross the Acheloos River, and look out for a sign on the left side of the road.
The monastery was under reconstruction and we didn’t spend much time here but the bridge was worth a visit. There is a forest track descending to the bridge shortly after the sign marking its location.
The traditional two-arched bridge sits in a beautiful location surrounded by the forest and with the river bubbling underneath it is the perfect place for a relaxing stop. We didn’t stay here for too long though because we had another swimming spot in mind.
Papachristou bridge
From the Michou bridge, we returned to the main road connecting Chaliki with Pyli and continued until the crossroad for Gardiki and Athamania. We drove down to the river and across the iron Papachristou bridge and parked our car on the opposite side of the river.
The iron bridge is quite loud when cars pass by (which doesn’t happen very often) but there is a beautiful pool underneath the bridge with a small pebbly beach. It was my favorite swimming spot of this trip and we spent quite some time here enjoying the refreshingly cool waters of the Acheloos River.
Hatzipetrou stone bridge in Neraidochori
Once we left the Papachristou bridge we drove all the way to Neraidochori, the first of the more “commercial” villages surrounding the Pertouli Ski Center. We stopped for a coffee at the village square and after a short research of the local sights we decided to make one last exploratory detour to the Hatzipetrou stone bridge of Neraidochori.
From the village square, we drove downhill following an asphalt road. At the last houses of Neraidochori, it turned into a dirt road leading down to the valley.
When we reached a bridge at the bottom of the valley we parked our car and continued on foot. To get to the stone bridge, follow a path running uphill on the left side of the river starting before the bridge.
It was overgrown by grass and blocked by fallen trees in a few places but it was passable. It will take you to another creek and a little bit later to the bridge marked by an old wooden sign.
We didn’t spot this path when we arrived and spent a good half an hour wandering through the riverbed, following the wrong stream and wrestling our way through the undergrowth.
The stone bridge once served as an important passage between the villages of Aspropotamos and the plains of Trikala. Today, it seems rarely visited but it is well worth the detour in my opinion.
Its location in the forest was truly idyllic and the small pool underneath allowed us to enjoy one last refreshing swim before our long drive back to Athens.
